Web Sling Inspection Checklist for Every Lift

Web Sling Inspection Checklist: 7 Checks Before Every Lift

A sling is only as safe as its last inspection. Before you hook up, take two minutes to run through seven checks. This checklist follows ASME B30.9 and covers web slings, the flat, woven nylon or polyester slings with sewn eyes. It does not cover round slings, which are built and identified differently.

Start by ignoring the colour

Crews who work with round slings learn to read the cover. Many round slings are colour coded by capacity, so the colour is a useful first clue. Web slings are different. The colour of a web sling is not a capacity code and should never be used as one. Skip it and begin with check one.

The 7 checks

1. Find and read the tag. The tag should show the maker's name or trademark, the maker's code or stock number, the rated load for at least one hitch and its angle, the web material, and the number of legs if there is more than one. If the tag is missing or unreadable, stop and remove the sling from service.

2. Match the rated load to your hitch. The tag lists a rating for each hitch it covers. A typical tag might show 6,400 lb vertical, 5,000 lb choker and 12,800 lb basket at 90°. Use the number for the hitch you will actually rig, not the biggest one on the tag.

3. Confirm the load weight and sling angle. Know what the load weighs before you lift. Then check the angle. The lower the angle from horizontal, the more force each leg carries. Keep legs at 45° or more where you can and never go below 30°. These angle limits are general rigging practice, so follow the tag and manufacturer if they say otherwise.

4. Inspect the webbing end to end. Run your eyes and hands along the full length. Look for cuts, tears, holes and snags, melting or charring, and acid or caustic burns. Any one of these is a reason to remove the sling.

5. Check the stitching and eyes. Broken or worn stitching in the load-bearing splices is a red flag. So is a knot anywhere in the sling.

6. Check the fittings. Look for bent, cracked or distorted hardware. Damaged fittings can fail long before the webbing does.

7. Rig it right. Use corner protectors or sleeves on sharp edges. Keep the webbing flat, untwisted and unknotted. Avoid shock loading, and never drag a sling out from under a load.

Web sling or round sling?

Even where a round sling is colour coded, the tag remains the record of its rating. For web slings the tag is the only guide.

Rated load in plain terms

Rated load is the most a sling may carry in a given hitch at a given angle. For web slings it is set at one-fifth of the minimum breaking strength. That is a 5:1 design factor. In North America the rating is stated in pounds and short tons, where one short ton is 2,000 lb.

When to take a sling out of service

Remove it if the tag is missing or illegible, if the webbing is cut, torn, burned or chemically damaged, if the stitching is broken or worn, if there is a knot, or if the fittings are damaged. When in doubt, take it out. Tag it or label it clearly so nobody picks it up by mistake, and tell your supervisor.

Periodic inspection and records

The pre-use check does not replace a formal inspection. ASME B30.9 calls for periodic inspection by a designated person at least once a year, and more often for slings used in severe conditions. Keep written records. Your province or employer may set stricter rules, so check them too.

Questions we hear

How can I tell a web sling from a round sling? A web sling is a flat strap. A round sling is a tubular cover around an endless loop of yarn.

Can I repair a web sling myself? No. Repairs should be done only as the manufacturer allows, and the tag should identify who made them.

Is a bright colour a sign of higher capacity? No. On a web sling, colour does not indicate capacity.

Get the right sling for the job

Not sure which web sling suits your load? Contact Hercules Crane & Lifting Supplies.